Saturday, April 25, 2009

Bola Race

I just got back from participating in the Peace Corps DR’s 4th annual bola race. A bola is a free ride to a destination, the equivalent of hitchhiking. In the US, bolas (or hitchhiking) is frowned upon and illegal, but here in the good ole Dominican Republic, bolas are an everyday occurrence. (Did you know that in Cuba if someone asks you for a bola, it is illegal to tell them no?) Now that you know what a bola is, I bet you are still wondering what exactly a bola race is, so let me explain.

Bola Race 2009: On Saturday morning, beginning in Santiago (a large city in the north of the country), 25 teams (boy-girl pairs) of Peace Corps volunteers competed to arrive to an unknown destination first. Five minutes before we were allowed to leave Santiago, they told us our final destination: Rio San Juan, a touristy beach site about one hour north of Boaba. So the bola race sounds easy, right? Here are the rules:

  • The teams can only use bolas. They can not pay for a ride to the final destination. Even though bolas are common, this is extremely difficult for us white Americans. The Dominicans see us, assume we are tourists with lots of money, and therefore they don’t want to give us free rides.
  • The teams have to dress in costume and come up with a background story. My partner, Ben, wrapped his ankle and walked around on crutches, and I wrapped my arm in a makeshift sling. Our story? We are brothers and sisters (if we were husband and wife, I couldn’t flirt with the male drivers to ease the bola-ing process) vacationing in the Dominican Republic. We were riding horses in the mountains, and both fell. We used up all of our money to pay for he hospital bills and now we have to get to Rio San Juan for our cousin’s wedding. We were trying to get some sympathy, but other teams just had ridiculous outfits. Two teams dressed in scrubs as doctors, two teams were members of athletic teams (one volleyball and one baseball), and there were a couple of teams who dressed as traveling singers.
  • Each team is given a large quantity of some sort of liquor or mixed drink. The liquor has to be completely gone by the time the team arrives at the final destination. This does not necessarily mean the two volunteers have to drink the liquor. The alcohol can be shared with the bola driver as a gift of gratitude. Many teams had normal liquor, such as rum or gin or whiskey. Ben and I had a bottle of Crème de Café, which tastes fine as a nice after-dinner drink. However, it is not the best alcohol to drink midday in the hot sun while you are riding in the back of a pick up truck, so we gave a lot away to people who helped us along the way.

The results?? Ben and I made it to Rio San Juan within 4 hours, coming in 10th place out of 25 teams. The first place team arrived to the hotel 45 minutes before we did. We got a bola from a guy in a large 16-wheeler truck. Then this nice old man paid for us to ride in a guagua (even though the guagua was public transportation, this was legal because we didn’t pay for the ticket). And lastly a guagua driver told us he would take us the last leg just to show us that nice Dominicans do exist. So after about 4 car transfers, we arrived in Rio San Juan, ditched our crutches and slings and just started running to the hotel. And I’m sure all of the locals loved watching random groups of Americans dressed in silly costumes because as we were running one Dominican yelled out, “I’m glad your leg is better, but you lost the race! The others already arrived!”

It was a lot of fun and a good way to see different parts of the country. And since we arrived to the hotel by 1 p.m., we had the whole afternoon to relax by the beach. And the best part of this bola race?? Because my site is so close to Rio San Juan, three volunteers just decided to come to Baoba and stay Sunday night with me. So we played dominoes, walked around town, went to my beach, and then played card games with my youth group, who of course were excited (especially the teenage boys) to spend the evening with 4 blonde American girls.

Why this is "the hardest job I'll ever love"

I have been so frustrated lately. For the past month, actually. And maybe it’s because I’m homesick, or maybe it’s because I have now been here for 6 months (and counting!) and have yet to see a difference in these kids’ behavior. I am not a patient person, and I want to see results now!

I told mom the other day that I wish that she and dad had been more of slacker parents, that they didn’t hold me to such high standards when I was growing up (and now) because then I wouldn’t hold the kids here – my kids – to such high standards. Every day I realize that my standards are way too high for them, but I refuse to lower my standards. I want them to try harder and reach them.

This is all abstract talk, so let me give a few examples.

I started my English class because everyone wanted to learn English. Seriously, every single person that I talked to in Baoba told me that they wanted to be in the class. I didn’t even want to teach English (I joined the Peace Corps to save the world, not to teach Dominicans how to flirt with the American tourists that come to the beaches), but to make them happy, I started three classes with 20 students in each class. The course was supposed to last 16 weeks. I am now on week 21, and have yet to finish it. We had a month-long break in December, and I spend so much time repeating classes for the people that didn’t come to the previous class, that not much new teaching gets done. And I am down to just two classes of 10 students. If they wanted to learn English so bad, why are they not putting any effort? The students don’t come when it rains, or when they know that I was out of town the day before, and when they do come, they arrive 30 minutes late, don’t do their homework or copy the notes and vocabulary lists. Some of them sleep or chat or talk on the phone, and all of this drives me nuts. The frustrating part is that all of these kids know that this behavior makes me upset, yet that doesn’t seem to stop them.

Which just re-emphasizes for me what a disaster the education system is here. They are in school for 4 hours a day, and one of those hours is recess. And since arriving in Baoba, I have yet to see a student go to school all 5 days of the week. The teachers have weekly meetings, and when there is a teacher’s meeting, they cancel school. God forbid, the teachers to have to meet outside of their 4-hour workday. So to clarify, the students here have class 3 hours a day for 4 days a week. And yet they still skip school, and their parents just don’t seem to care. (side note: You know how our grandparents always say, “back when I was your age, I had to walk 10 miles in the snow to go to school.” Well I now tell my kids “back when I was your age, I had to go to school 8 hours a day, 5 days a week” and the kids’ jaws drop every time they hear this.) So every time one of my kids does not go to school, I march directly over to the parents and ask them “why didn’t Fulana go to school,” and the response always is “oh, she didn’t want to.” I’m just going to let you all imagine what would have happened if I had told my dad that I didn’t want to go to school that day. (In case you don’t know my dad, here is what would’ve happened: he would have pulled me out of bed and said ‘I don’t care if you don’t want to go. You are going to school.’ End of discussion.) Or the parent may tell me that the kid had a headache. But it is my belief (my dad taught me this also) that if a kid is too sick to go to school, then the kid is also too sick to ride his/her bicycle to the beach and spend the afternoon sunbathing. These kids don’t even try to fake their illnesses. Or the latest excuse, which I heard just this morning, was that the grandmother told her three kids not to go to school today because they had to clean the house to get ready for visitors. The visitors arrived at 6:30 p.m. The kids could have easily gone to school, returned by noon and cleaned the house, but apparently that idea didn’t even cross their minds. So then I get upset and tell the parents “of course Fulana doesn’t want to go to school. No one likes to go to school, but it is YOUR responsibility as mother/father/grandmother to make your kid go. How is Fulana going to learn if she never goes to school??” The parent always agrees, I leave, and then the following week the exact same scenario happens with the same exact kid. Everyone here in Baoba thinks I am totally crazy because at one point or another I have yelled at them for not sending their kid to school. And while I don’t believe anyone has learned anything about the importance of education, I do believe that they have all learned to stay out of my line of vision if they are skipping school because no one wants the crazy Americana yelling at them outside their house.

The education system doesn’t make things any easier. All students have to wear a uniform to attend the public schools (khaki pants or skirts and a light blue polo shirt). And for some of the poorer families, the kids only have one pair of khaki pants and one shirt. So many times the excuse the family gives me for why Fulana didn’t go to school today was because her uniform was dirty. And it’s so hard to argue with that reason when we don’t have water, no one can do laundry, and of course kids are going to get their clothes dirty when they have to walk 2 miles to the school every day. What is especially frustrating is that school won’t accept any student without a uniform, and often if the student is wearing a dirty uniform, the school sends them back home. And the teachers here are a whole different problem all together. They cuss in class, they tell the students “you are stupid. You are worthless. You can’t do anything,” and corporal punishment is very much accepted. If I was a student, I wouldn’t want to attend a class like that either.

So moving on to my sex-ed class, my Escojo kids, who I love dearly and who at the same time I want to strangle their necks. These kids are my neighbors, my friends, and whenever I refer to “my kids” (such as in the previous paragraphs about those that never go to school), it is my Escojo kids who I am referring to. It’s a tough job because I want to be their mentor and their friend, and yet at the same time, sometime I feel the need to discipline them and act as their mom. And these kids are generally good kids. I have seen other Escojo groups, and my kids are by far the best. But the thing that I am realizing is that those early teenage years are tough, tough years, especially with the girls. (side note: I now realize what a hard job mom and dad had raising two girls, and I am so very sorry for all that I put you through when I was a teenager myself. I now understand completely how you felt.) When I started the Escojo group, I thought I would feel more comfortable around the girls, but the reality is that I really enjoy the boys better. The boys ask me relevant questions, they pay close attention to my lectures, and they don’t laugh and correct all of my Spanish. Also if the boys begin to misbehave, I can shoot them a look (Thomas and Pete know the type of look I am talking about), and they immediately stop what they’re doing and pay attention to the activity. The girls however, are constantly squealing and laughing in their high-pitched voices. They are too embarrassed to participate, they want to sit in the back of the class and chat with each other or send text messages to friends (side note: I’m going to go out on a limb and say that the reason why the poverty level in Baoba is so low is because everyone spends all of their money on the latest cell phone. I am such a loser because my phone does not have a camera or video recorder; it only has 2 games; and I can’t use it to access the Internet or to download music). These girls also laugh at my Spanish pronunciation and correct almost every single word that I say. And while I appreciate the helpful tips, I am extremely grateful for the boys in the group who tell the girls to shut up because they all understood what I meant.

I think the reason why I have such high standards for these kids is because the majority of the time, they act (and look) so much older than they really are. Girls in this country get married and start having babies when they’re 13. Girls who are 11 are teaching me how to cook and clean my house properly. The guys who are 15 and 16 are constantly flirting with me. And the older guys (above the age of 25) in Baoba are dating the 13 year old girls. So it’s hard for me to remember that these kids are just babies. I’m sure if I was being taught about condoms and birth control when I was 13-years-old by a silly-looking foreigner, I would laugh nervously as well.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Semana Santa

It's officially Easter, or Pascua, or el domingo de la resureccion, as the Dominicans call it. And since this morning I was able to talk to both Mom and Thomas, and both of them asked me how Dominicans celebrate Easter, I thought another update was due.

The entire week before Easter is called Semana Santa, or holy week. However there are not many things that are holy about it. All of the Dominicans use this opportunity to leave the city and travel to the campo and to the beach to visit family. And since I live in both the campo and the beach, there has been a huge influx of visitors to Baoba. All kids are out of school for the week, and all business are closed from Wednesday to Sunday (there are 0 businesses in Baoba so this actually does not affect me or my shopping habits at all). Dominicans also use this holiest of weeks to celebrate by drinking rum. Lots and lots of rum. They drink this rum while they're at the beach, therefore fights occur because Dominicans always carry pistols with them, and car crashes occur because when leaving the beach, they drive drunk. It's a mess, and I was probably the only person in Baoba who didn't go to the beach this week. But I preferred to stay in my safe, comfy house.

They do have religious services on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and of course Sunday. However I didn't get to go to any of them because I was teaching my English class on Thursday during the mass, and then I left for the capital on Friday. I really didn't need to be in the capital until Monday morning, but I didn't want to be on the road on Saturday and Sunday when all of these crazy Dominican drunkards were driving home from their vacations in the campo/beach.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Random Update

Just a couple of random thoughts:
  • They officially changed the name Baoba to Baova on our road sign. I however, refuse to change the spelling of my town, so you guys can continue to call it Baoba as well.
  • UNC WON THE NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIP!! One of the volunteers who lives about an hour from my site actually has a sport bar in her site, so I spent the night with her and was able to watch the game. We forced all the Dominicans to change the station of the baseball game to the college championships, and they were only happy to oblige the two americanas. It was so exciting just to be able to see the game and pretend like I was back in the States.
  • Happy early Easter, and thank you all for your cards and packages. I have been extremely homesick lately, so it was a pleasant surprise to arrive in the capital today with tons of mail and well wishes from you guys.
  • Pictures are (finally) updated!! Check them out at: http://picasaweb.google.com/LRams728
  • Since moving into my own house, I have had to learn how to cook-Dominican style, and it has not been easy. I'm inserting this video of my 11-year-old neighbor teaching me how to peel a platano:

Traveling with my kids

A couple of Fridays ago, I took a 19-year-old girl out from Baoba to Mantancitas, a larger city about one hour away. Marlene and I went to stay three days with Regina, another youth Peace Corps volunteer. Regina was giving a workshop for her Escojo group, and she invited me and one of the members of my group. After receiving the invitation, I immediately knew that I was going to ask Marlene to accompany me. Marlene has the ability to really be a leader in the Escojo group and with the youth in general. Although she left the high school just a few months before graduating, she is extremely smart and sassy and always one of the first ones to participate in my activities. So she and I went to Matancitas, gave a lecture on the consequences of alcohol and drugs, and she is now officially an Escojo graduate and multiplier!

And I just returned from a weekend long trip to the regional Escojo conference with two of my youths. The conference was in Jarabacoa, about 2 hours from Baoba, and neither one of the kids who went with me had ever been there before. Because the conference is a huge privilege, I made everyone who wanted to go write an essay on why they deserved to go this conference. I then chose the two people to go based on their essays, their attendance to past Escojo meetings and their participation in the meetings. The two that I chose to go were Meri, a 19-year-old (the cousin of Marlene), who is very responsible and has the potential to be a leader in the group, and Andy, a 15-year-old who is incredibly smart (he graduates from high school this year!). Both of them live with their grandmothers and are kept on a pretty tight leash, so this gave them the opportunity to get out of Baoba and travel and meet other kids their age.

The conference went amazingly well. I was nervous about using public transportation in a country that I don’t know using a language that I don’t know (I don’t like traveling to unknown areas when I’m alone, much less when I am in charge of two teenagers), but luckily we made it to Jarabacoa safely. (SIDENOTE: On the return trip, Regina, the volunteer from Matancitas, got on the wrong bus with her youth and ended up in Santo Domingo, about 4 hours from her site. She then had to travel directly back to Matancitas that night, and arrived at her site after 9 p.m., whereas my kids and I arrived in Baoba (which is one hour further than Regina’s site) at 4:30 p.m. yikes!) There were 75 youth at the conference, all from the central region of the country, and 12 other Peace Corps volunteers. During the three days, the kids acted in dramas, performed in a talent show, and learned about HIV/AIDS, the consequences of adolescents being pregnant, mental health, how to raise funds for the group, and how to give effective lectures. They played volleyball, made bracelets out of string and beads, and ate way too much food. And at the end of the conference, Andy, Meri and I sat down to plan what activities our Escojo group will do in the upcoming months. We are going to have a couple of fundraisers (a raffle, a movie night, sell homemade bracelets) to raise enough money to travel to Matancitas for a little day trip. The group will graduate in May, so in June the kids will plan and give their first lecture to the community of Baoba. We are also inviting the Escojo group that is in La Capilla to come visit us for the day. And now Meri and Andy (and Marlene too since she technically already graduated from the course) have the responsibility to help me finish giving the lectures to the rest of the group, which they are excited about.

After taking them to the conference, I think I now know how my mom felt when she accompanied me on all of those field trips in elementary school. I made sure that the kids always were where they were supposed to be, that they went to bed on time, that their suitcases were packed, that they were on the same bus as me, that they ate all of their dinner, and that they called home to tell their parents they were safe and having a good time. Andy had a bad cold, so I was also in charge of taking care of him and holding his dirty Kleenex when it was time for him to participate in an activity. It was a great weekend, and I think it really increased their confidence and trust in me, and I certainly learned a lot about how great both of them are.